Baby pigeons stop being fed by their mother and start eating seeds

One of the best ways to try to get them to wean is to sprinkle the seed on the ground and not into a bowl. The roundness of the seed apparently kicks off the pecking instinct.

I've hand reared literally hundreds of pigeons over the years - as the bird gets to about four weeks old, I begin to cut the morning feed and leave them to peck around during the day as they get hungry -- it's really no different from their parents beginning to cut back on the feeding a bit as they get to about 34 days or so - I always give them a full evening feed.

How do racing pigeons choose a mate?

The strong survive tells all to your question, the Pigeon you see Strutting, head bobbing, charging type of behavior is the male, he is trying to woo a hen into submission, I am a Pigeon/Wildlife rescue & rehab person, I have many pigeons here, I have nesting boxes and watching the males try to lure a female into a nesting box is fun to watch, Males will also compete for a hen, some fights can become vicious.
The Pigeons do mate for life, however the (for life) issue can be looked at differently, If something was to happen to a Pigeons mate the survivor will except another mate in due time.
One is a lonely number.
They will only have 2 babies at a time, depending on the weather they will have up to 3 clutches per year.

Racing Pigeon - Paratyphoid and Coccidiosis

Image via WikipediaGo to the medications for Paratyphoid (Salmonella) and Coccidiosis. Read the descriptions of the illness that they treat. This is what it sounds like to me. Pigeons get sick when they are stressed. (raising babies) If at somewhere down the line you pigeon feed had mice or rats crawling all over it you have a good chance of getting Paratyphoid. Never buy feed that has any kind of stains on the bag. Also Foy's will take poop samples and analyze them for $20 they will call you on the phone and tell you the results. If you ask him to he will recommend a medicine or medicines. Some diseases in pigeons take to medications to eradicate.

The best course of action is to keep your cage clean. Change the water twice a day in warm weather. No so necessary in the cooler months. Give them water in a type of vessel that they can't bathe in because they will. They will also poop in there. They will throw crap in the water no matte what kind of device you use. It is best to put the water in some kind of container that covers the water. They have them on the Foy's web site.

Make sure that when it rains that your cage doesn't get wet inside. Pigeons need lots of fresh water,dryness, air and sunshine. There should be a way that they can lay in the sun at their will. Which means that they also need shade afforded to them at all times. They need individual perches so they can rest good at night. I could go on since I have had lots of experiences over the last 50 years of keeping sporting pigeons, but I need to close. I hope this helps. There is also a fantastic book at the library by the name of The Pigeon, by Levi, published by Levi Publishing. It is a pigeon keepers bible, check it out!

You have three cock birds, one hen and a baby. Do you see anything peculiar in that list? You should always keep even pairs. Never keep two pairs in one building. You can put one pair, or fifty pairs in any size building. If you only put two pair in the same building they fight all the time. One cock will become dominant and neither pair will raise any babies. If you keep an odd number of one sex or the other then you are asking for trouble. If they are all together the cock bird that is mated and feeding a baby is also fighting off the other two cock birds. They are under a ton of stress. The hen because the odd males are going to be chasing her relentlessly and the baby also. The odd cock birds will chase it so relentlessly that they will peck the feathers off the back of the head and tear the skin open. It is called scalping. It is a common occurrence in lofts with too many
cock birds.

The first thing you want to do is to remove the hen so she will no longer be mated to the roller. There are tens of thousands of pigeons culled each year for minor things. These crosses you are breeding are useless mongrels. People spent hundreds of years breeding and improving pigeons to get both breeds that you have. When crossed they are no better than a feral pigeon.

Ask Foy's for a catalog. It has descriptions of diseases and other really good information. It will help you with keeping your pigeons.

Motivating Racing Pigeons

Image by PigeonRacer via FlickrFor 10 years I have been racing pigeons and all you have to do is give Your birds Food for a couple of weeks And they will fly back if it is a older bird 1 or 2 years old
it may take a few months before your bird will fly back to your home after a few months or weeks depending on the age of the bird take your birds out side and let your birds go they will stay around home than they will leave home for a few hours but they will come back

Training and Managing Racing Pigeons

There are a lot of different opinions and methods of training to get good results in the races. The most important thing is that your birds are healthy, in good condition, are comfortable with the loft (for motivation), and are of good breeding.
I like to start training early (as I start breeding early), and take it a bit slow at first to make sure the birds are comfortable with the experience and know where they're going, at first. Usually a couple weeks after they've started coming out, I'll release them several times in various places around the yard. Helps them get used to the crate and work on flock formation in flight. Then once they've been loft flying for a decent amount of time and I feel okay with taking them, road training begins. We're surrounded by trees so I have a couple short stops before the technical 5 mile mark. Then I go to 10, and then increase the distance by 10 miles from there on. If I have a bad toss, I'll give them a day off and loft fly, then jump back into training, 10 miles shorter from the bad place. Then keep going.

This is all just my own ways. You'll find out what works for you as you go. I like training down the center of the race course the best I can. Usually that means just releasing off the highways. I also like using major landmarks to my/their advantage by training near/at them. Just keep your birds in shape, and they should do fine. That doesn't mean training them constantly. Just fly them everyday from the loft if not training. Also talk to some club members and get their opinions too. Then you can take pieces from 'him' and other things from 'her', put them together, and make your own training plans.

1891 Hotel Manhattan New-York Pigeon Racing-Club Usa

Old Antique Historical Victorian Prints Maps and Historic Fine Art----------. 1891 Hotel Manhattan New-York Pigeon Racing-Club Usa Page From An Issue 1891 L'Ilustration Published France. Size 15 X 11 Inches

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